Whinlatter and a Cloud Inversion on Hopegill Head

 Date : 11/12/2024

Wainwrights : Whinlatter, Hopegill Head

Start / Finish : Braithwaite

Distance : 22 miles

Height Gained : 3524 ft

Time Taken : 7 hours 30 mins

The Route : Anticlockwise from Braithwaite

This hike was planned with the intention of ticking off Whinlatter and Barrow, via Hopegill Head, Crag Hill, Sail and Scar Crags (which I have already climbed). It was long and somewhat ambitious route for this time of year due to limited daylight but I felt it was achievable. 

However, I experienced one of those rare, unexpected and truly magical views from the summit of Hopegill Head (more detail below) which resulted in me lingering there far too long and ultimately losing light and having to cut the route short. Barrow will therefore have to wait for another day. 

The hike, and the wonderful views can be seen in the video below.

The walk starts in Braithwaite, a small village near the southern end of Bassenthwaite Lake. I headed off towards Lanefoot Farm just after sun up. It was about -2 degrees C, the ground was frozen, the sky was clear and there was no wind. A perfect day for a winter walk. 

Whinlatter (left), Bassenthwaite Lake (centre) and Skiddaw (right)

After a short distance of road walking a path head off towards Whinlatter, which Forestry England describes as 'Englands only mountain forest'. And it was a surprisingly lovely place. It has a myriad of paths, tracks and mountain bike trails. There are sculptures, educational and reflective messages, viewpoints, picnic spots and a visitor centre. Everything you would expect from a forest tourist attraction but with better views. 

The path over Chapel Beck

Views over to Keswick

Whinlatter Forest

I headed in the vague direction of the summit, taking the upwards option whenever there was a route choice, which was frequently. The map was of little help. 

Eventually I emerged from the forest onto the open heathland of the summit plateau. There are 2 summits. The eastern summit is slightly higher and is the true summit at 525m. The western summit is more picturesque, with a wind shelter and better views but is lower at 517m. 

Whinlatter summit ahead

                               Whinlatter Summit Panorama

The direct route to Hopegill Head would be south, but this would involve a pathless scramble down steep icy terrain and so I opted for the longer route along the only path heading vaguely in the direction I was heading but which initially left Whinlatter in a northwesterly direction. Eventually the path intersects one of the forestry tracks which meanders around the western flank of the mountain before reaching the road. 

Views over to Graystones

A Whinlatter Forestry Path

About 1/2 mile of road walking meets the path which head up the flanks of Swinside. At this point I entered the cloud base and fully expected to have zero views from the upcoming summits. So I plodded along the ridge with a slightly heavy heart as the clag I was wading through was not forecast. There were no views from the summit of Ladyside Pike and so I continued onwards and then upwards onto Hopegill Head. 

The path up to Hopegill Head

Ladyside Pike summit

The ridge up onto Hopegill Head

And it was during this short but steep scramble that I broke through the cloud layer and emerged into another world of glorious blue skies and unbroken sunshine. The neighbouring high fells were also poking above the cloud like islands in white ocean. It was a truly breathtaking experience. Ive seen pictures of cloud inversions but never thought I'd be lucky enough to witness one. But today was my lucky day. And it was such a striking and rapid contrast between polar opposite weather conditions. One minute I was in demoralising clag and then within a few steps I was in a clear blue sky with a stunning panorama. 

Looking over Sand Hill towards Crag Hill

Sun over Grasmoor

A Brocken Spectre with Skiddaw beyond

Lost for words

And so it was that my route plan had to change. By the time I was ready to head off the island of Hopegill Head there was about 45 minutes of daylight remaining. The prospect of a steep icy descent off Crag Hill, Sail and Barrow in the dark was a little foreboding and so I decided to bail out down the Coledale valley path. Back below the cloud it was a overcast evening which looked like any other typical day in the UK winter. You would ever know that there was another world just a few meters higher. 

Back below the cloud 

The Coledale Valley

It was a long trudge back to car following the course of Coledale Beck but thinking of that magical summit view passed the time quickly. The last 20 minutes were in darkness. 

Darkness for last mile

This was a day that I will never forget. I just hope I'm lucky enough to see another one.

The Wild Camping Code

 Its a shame that this article needs to be written, but as wild camping has gained in popularity over the last few years, unfortunately we are seeing more instances of poor behaviour which tarnish the reputation of the responsible wild camper.

A lovely spot on Grasmoor

Wild camping is essentially illegal in England. Its 'tolerated' because wild campers have historically been small in number and fairly inconspicuous. But as numbers increase, and behaviour worsens, its becoming an activity with an increasing distasteful profile in the eyes of land owners. And as wild camping draws more negative attention to itself, wild campers run the risk of becoming demonised by the general public. 

Camping on the summit of Blencathra

Its a real shame because the vast majority of wild campers are discreet and respectful to the degree where they are totally inconspicuous. Which is the whole point. As people who love the outdoors most wild campers appreciate the landscape and the privilege of being able to spend some precious time in it. Its the thoughtless minority who threaten wild camping and its future in England. 

Room with view of Wastwater

The Wild Camping Code was written in an attempt to provide some ground rules and guidelines for wild campers so that we all know what is expected of us. Here is the code and the most common ways in which people ignore it !

1) Camp high on open hills, above the highest fell wall, away from main tracks, houses, farms and livestock

This should be easy enough. Its a simple case of being discreet, unobtrusive and out of sight. But we've all seen people camping within sight of roads or paths and I'm sure it annoys you as much as me. Unfortunately some folk don't like paying for campsites and think they can impose themselves wherever they like. 'Fly campers' openly flaunt everything that the responsible wild camper holds dear.

2) Minimise the numbers of people and tents

Another common code violation that we see time and time again. Large groups of tents, lots of people and usually therefore lost of noise, and often in conjunction with violation of rule 1.

3) Pitch your camp late in the evening and leave early in the morning

This is one which really irritates me and I see this happening all the time. I challenge anyone to hike up to Sprinkling Tarn, Scales Tarn or Angle Tarn in the middle of the day on any weekend without seeing at least one tent. This is just selfish behaviour. The fells aren't your personal camp site. Set up after the last day hikers have gone home, and pack up before they arrive again the next day. Wild campers should be invisible to all, with the occasional exception of other wild campers.

4) Don't dig drainage ditches, trample plants or move rocks

Just have some respect for the landscape. Its not yours to change to your taste. If you must move a rock to make way for your tent then put it back exactly where you found it.

5) If asked by a landowner move on, do so respectfully and without argument

We know we shouldn't really be there. If we are respectful and follow this code then its unlikely anyone will bother us but if we do get challenged, its likely because the landowner has had a previous bad experience with irresponsible wild campers and they, like us, are fed up of them. Try to project an image of respectfulness and understanding, in a manor which enhances the image of wild campers and doesn't erode it any further. If they still want you to leave, then apologise and do so without question.

6) Don't light any fires; use a proper camping stove for cooking

Fires scar the land, sometimes for many months or even years. They also pose a risk of causing wildfires in dry weather. Using a stove off the floor is fine but when you leave, there should be no signs of scorching.

7) Toileting should be well away from any water source or path (30 metres or more) and paper / sanitary items should be bagged up and carried out, not buried.

This is just common sense. Take a small lightweight trowel, dig a small hole at least 15cm deep, do your business and then recover the hole so the area looks as it did before. We've all seen human waste and toilet paper in the hills. It's completely unacceptable and selfish behaviour. If you've done this then go and have a serious word with yourself!

8) Do not use streams or rivers for washing with soaps or detergent

This doesn't need any further explanation. Keep your chemicals to yourself. Why anyone would bring detergent with them on a wild camp is beyond me. Just clean yourself with water or wet wipes (which you then pack up and take away) and have a proper wash when you get home.

9) Maintain the peace by aiming to be as quiet as possible during your camp.

A violation of this rule usually go's hand in hand with violations of rules 1 and 2. Noise travels remarkably far at night, so be respectful and keep quiet.

10) Leave no trace that you've camped. Leave the area exactly as you found it. Bag up all litter and take it home with you.

This is the one which boils the blood of anyone who has any sense of decency and respect for the outdoors. There is really nothing worse than coming across litter in the fells. Unfortunately the worst instances of littering tend be around wild camping sites. I've seen empty gas canisters, food packaging, toiler paper galore, uneaten food, guy lines and even a whole tent. Leaving your rubbish in wild unspoiled areas is perhaps the ultimate expressive of lazyness, selfishness and a total disregard for others. I'm really not sure if anyone who does this can actually be rehabilitated but we have to live in hope.


So those are the rules. They are really just common sense values and are not difficult to follow. So please spread the word and continue to act in way which represents our hobby in the most positive light. We, of all the people who enjoy the great outdoors, should be the ones who hold our wonderful landscape in the highest regard. Our behaviour in the fells should be second to none. Or we risk losing the access which we hold so dear.