Bowfell is the 6th highest mountain the Lake District. It's pyramid shaped profile stands at the head of the Great Langdale, Eskdale and Langstrath valleys. It forms part of a continuous horseshoe ridge of high rocky ground from Crinkle Crags at the south eastern end to Slight Side at the south western end, with Great End and the Scafell Massif occupying its northern apex. Angle Tarn sits in a glacial corrie under the steep eastern crags of Bowfell. A cluster of much smaller tarns called '3 tarns' (but varying between 1 and 5 bodies of water depending on weather) nestle in the col between Bowfell and Crinkle Crags. Bowfell is most commonly climbed from Stool End Farm in the Great Langdale valley via the 'Band', or as part of a ridge walk from Crinkle Crags. It can also be climbed from the Eskdale or Mosedale valleys from where its steep gully scarred southern aspect (Bowfell Links) can be best appreciated.
Date: 3rd December 2016 Start/Finish: Old Dungeon Ghyll Summits: Bowfell (2959 feet), Rossett Pike (2136 feet) [and the Eiger! 13,020 feet] Distance: 9 miles Elevation: 4076 feet Time Taken: 6 hours
The Route : Clockwise from Old Dungeon Ghyll (far right)
It had been ages since I was last in the fells. Five months in fact. The main reasons were 1) getting a new job 2) having a child who needs driving to football-lots 3) bad weather whenever I planned a trip. Anyway, it was time make amends. My 9 year old was keen to get out for a hiking adventure and I had promised to take him up Bowfell. Stories of steep crags, exposed routes and stunning views had whetted his appetite and there was also the chance of some snow high up which added to the excitement. We parked up near the Old Dungeon Ghyll and headed off through Stool End Farm and up the Band. Patches of snow were visible higher up but the summit of Bowfell remained elusively under cloud. As he had managed Blencathra with ease in the summer I thought that the climbers traverse / great slab route would be good challenge for him, especially if there was a bit of snow around. However, as we didn't have axe's & spikes I was prepared to turn back or change routes if needed (I had checked the various web cams, weather forecasts and blogs and was satisfied that any snow/ice would be patchy and avoidable).
Stool End Farm
Oxendale Beck
A friendly local
Pike O'Stickle
Looking back along the Great Langdale Valley
First patch of snow high up on the Band
We headed up the Band until leaving the main path to access climbers traverse (a detailed description of how to find the route is described here). At this point we encountered the first few patches of snow which the boy promptly jumped in, got his gloves soaking wet and his hands cold. No problem though. I has prepared for such eventualities and had a rucksack full of spare warm stuff. So on went the waterproof mitts and the conversation turned to famous mountaineers and epic alpine adventures. Before long his imagination was fired and we were embarking on the first ascent of the Eiger. He had great fun climbing up a steepish patch of snow using 2 poles and plenty of grit and determination. He felt like a real mountaineer and I was happy that the slope gradually levelled out at the bottom where there were no rocks to slide into if he slipped.
Struggling up the the Eigers fiercesome north face !
Up to his thighs on the 'Rote Fluh'
Kicking steps on the 'White Spider'
Having successfully conquered the Eiger we returned to Bowfell and made our way towards the climbers traverse. It was great to take my son along this narrow route which winds its way amongst some of Lakelands most spectacular rock scenery. The presence of a few snow patches added to the adventure.
Climbers Traverse .....
..... or rather the Hinterstoisser Traverse!
Looking towards Bowfell Buttress
The water spout under Cambridge Crag
A hyperlapse video of climbers traverse
We stopped for a well earned rest and a bite to eat by the water spout at the bottom of Cambridge Crag before heading off for the final push up the steep boulder field by the famous Great Slab.
Views over Great Slab towards the Langdale Pikes
Scrambling up the boulder field
A misty Great Slab
From the top of Great Slab its just a short amble to the shattered summit of Bowfell. Unfortunately there were no views today so we didn't linger. Instead we headed quickly off towards Esk Pike but then got distracted by more large snow fields which just had to be walked over, slid down and jumped in.
Getting back below the cloud and about to 'bum slide' down this inviting slope
Views over to Esk Pike
How Exciting!?
By the time we had finished playing around it was clear that we wouldn't have enough daylight left to climb over Esk Pike and come back via Esk Hause as originally planned. Instead we took a short cut down to Angle Tarn at Ore Gap where even more large snow fields distracted us into further fun and frolics. By the time we bagged Rossett Pike and got down the Rossett Gill path it was going dark. Head torches were deployed for that last mile along the Cumbria Way back to the car. This made for a last bit of excitement before the end of a perfect lad & dad adventure.
Snowball action shot
The arty black and white shot of Angle Tarn
Bowfell summit now out of cloud ..... typical!
Trying to make a snow angel
Icing a limb threatening wound on Rossett Pike summit
Looking down Rossett Gill and back along the Great Langdale Valley
This is one of my favourite areas in Lakeland. The Great Langdale valley is delectable country and the Crinkle Crags ridge leading up to the pinnacle of Bowfell occupies prime position at its head. It had been a few years since I last did this route and at the time I rushed it due it impending bad weather and didn't really have time to savour the views. Today, however, the forecast was perfect and I had the company of my Dad, so no need to race. An Aerial 3D Fly-Through of the Route
This particular route from Stool End Farm up the Oxendale path and along Crinkle Crags to Bowfell has become increasingly popular since being featured in the Julia Bradbury 'Wainwright Walks' TV series. Our intended route, as did Julia's, also included the 'climbers traverse' path along the eastern face of Bowfell, which skirts its most impressive rock scenery. At least that was the plan. The route can be demanding for some and although my Dad managed to climb Ben Nevis, Snowdon & Scafell Pike in his 70th year last summer, he hadn't done any fell walking since. We therefore had options to bale out down the 'Band' after Crinkle Crags or to climb Bowfell via the less exposed tourist route directly from 3 Tarns.
Looking up the Oxendale valley
Crinkle Crags from the bridge over Oxendale Beck
We set off in bright sunshine at 11am along the path to Stool End Farm and then headed up the Oxendale Valley. From the new wooden bridge (rebuilt in 2005 after a storm swept the old one away) the path heads steeply up towards Red Tarn. Height is gained rapidly in this first section and backward glances reveal a constantly changing perspective of the Langdale Pikes.
The Langdale Pikes
Views over to Bowfell and Hells Gill
Views back from Brown Howe
The path gains a distinctively red tinge as Red Tarn is approached due the abundance of haematite & red sandstone in this area. Once at Red Tarn the bulk of the days steep ascent is done and the route flattens off as it approaches the first Crinkle.
Heading up the 'Red' Oxendale Path
Red Tarn
Crinkle Crags & Bowfell from Great Knott
A short diversion up to Great Knott is well worth the effort as from this vantage point the whole ridge can be seen in all its glory. From here the path is currently being improved by the 'fix the fells' team who today were busily grafting in the hot sun. Finally a short but steep section leads up to the summit of Crinkle 1.
Here, for the first time, the Scafells come into view over the Eskdale
valley. We had lunch here just off to the western side enjoying superb
views right down the length of the Great Langdale valley. Wainwright describes the walk along Crinkle Crags as "the finest ridge
mile in the Lake District" and a "fell walkers delight". It's easy to see why with steep drops down
to plunging valleys on both sides and a constantly changing terrain underfoot.
Views of the Scafells from the summit of Crinkle 1
Our lunch spot looking down the Great Langdale valley
Looking back over Great Knott, Red Tarn & Pike O'Blisco towards Windermere
Crinkles 2 & 3 from Crinkle 1
The approach to Crinkle 2 (Long Top) reveals the famous 'Bad Step' which seemingly blocks the direct route up to the summit. It is essentially a large chockstone wedged at the top of a narrow 12 foot high gulley. The solution is a 'fairly' simple climb up the rock face on the right side, after which the summit is a 1 minute 'boulder stroll' away. My Dad didn't fancy this so he took the alternative path around to the left while I cautiously scrambled up.
The approach to 'Bad Step'
Bad Step looking 'Bad'
The summit of the second Crinkle represents the true summit of Crinkle Crags but I think the best views are from Crinkle 3 which imposes more abruptly than the others into Great Langdale giving the best perspective along the valley.
Crinkle 2 summit panorama East
Crinkle 2 summit panorama West
Bowfell & and the remaining ridge walk from Crinkle 3
Great Langdale from Crinkle 3
The Scafell's from Crinkle 3
As the ridge walk continues its undulating course, Bowfell becomes more imposing with every step. A short detour to Shelter Crags (essentially the 6th Crinkle) shows it off best.
Eying up a potential wild camping spot near Crinkle 5
Bowfell Links looking magnificent from near Shelter Crags
From 3 Tarns we had a rest stop & stamina check resulting in the decision to carry on up Bowfell via the climbers traverse route. This involves skirting 'off path' eastwards across the southern flank of Bowfell until the narrow winding path is picked up. Climbers traverse is essentially a rock climbers route to access the vertical crags of Bowfell Buttress, Flat Crags & Cambridge Crags. These towering rock faces represent Bowfells best bits and are largely hidden from view to walkers climbing up from the 'Band' and the typical route from 3 Tarns. If you want to access climbers traverse from the Band then that route is described in detail here Or climbers traverse in winter is described here
The early section of climbers traverse
The winding path heading towards Bowfell Buttress
Bowfell Buttress and Easy Gulley (doesn't look easy to me!)
The traverse clings to Bowfell's steep eastern flank passing right under these
vertical walls of rock until a point is reached at the bottom centre of Cambridge Crag where a spring emerges from the rock face. It is
here that Wainwright recommends stopping for a drink as "nothing better ever came out of a barrel or a bottle". It really is very invigorating and provides just the refreshment needed before tackling the steep route upwards from here.
The water spout, showing the way up along the boulder field
From this point a steep diagonal route is evident cutting backwards (leftwards as you look at Cambridge Crag) up a 'river of boulders'. This is the way up, which once followed, quite quickly reveals the lower part of Great Slab, an aptly named huge hunk of flat rock dominating the left side of the ascent. Route choice is now to either continue the scramble up the boulder field or walk up the calf burning angular rock face of Great Slab. Having tried both, I prefer the former as the use of hands can be quite reassuring on such an exposed area.
The lower part of Great Slab
Tackling the steep ascent
The top of Great Slab is one of the best places to be in the fells. This classic view with the Langdale Pikes in the background is immortalised in Wainwright's ink drawing in book 4.
Walking with a
companion today meant I could take advantage of them as photographer
while I made my way over to pose similarly at the top.
Me looking tiny at the top of the Great Slab
From here it is a 2 minute wander over the boulder strewn summit until the top is reached. The summit panorama is outstanding as Bowfell occupies prime position at the head of 3 main valleys (Great Langdale, Eskdale & Langstrath). In fact only Great Gable, out of all the high Lakeland fells, is not fully visible. We were lucky to be up there in good weather today as usually, if there is a cloud to be seen in Cumbria, it is often perched stubbornly on Bowfell summit. For the record, its only a 30 minute climb from the water spout to the summit, but Oh! what a great 30 minutes!
Windermere peeping through the top of Great Slab
Bowfell summit view back over Crinkle Crags
The Scafells from Bowfell summit : Broad Stand looking very vertical from here!
The view north to Esk Pike
Views down the Eskdale valley
Views along Great Langdale
Bowfell summit panorama west
Bowfell summit panorama east
The obligatory summit selfie
We then headed down towards 3 Tarns and back along the Band. Exactly 2 hours later we were enjoying a well earned pint at the Old Dungeon Ghyll as the last light of day slid over the Langdale Pikes ending a fantastic day in the fells.
A last glance at one of the best views in the Lake District
