A Tour of our Vintage VW Camper Van

Well its been a while since I've posted a camping / hiking video. Lots of reasons. Covid, work (healthcare), kids - basically a lack of time. I have however managed to finish most of the outstanding jobs on our camper van and I thought I would share the results before I wrap her up in her cosy cover for the winter. 

                See the video below

So let me introduce you to 'Skippy', our original Holdsworth conversion 1979 VW type 2, bay window, 2 litre air cooled camper van (called a ‘late bay’ by fellow ‘dub campers’). 

She is 42 years old and officially a historic vehicle, meaning no road tax and no MOT needed (although I always get her MOT'd anyway). We bought her about 6 years ago from a local lady who had 3 vans that she hired out for weddings etc. Skippy was surplus to requirement at the time and as we had hired her for 2 previous holidays, and knew her well, we decided to bite the bullet and buy her. 

The front of our bay window camper

She was is reasonable condition when we got her. The engine & gearbox had been recently replaced and were in great condition but there was some bodywork rust bubbling through in the usual spots and the interior was starting to look a bit tatty. We therefore decided to spruce her up. We wanted to keep as many of her original features as possible and so we renovated, rather than updating her. 

She's a pop top with a sliding side door

We started the work 3 years ago and since then she's had all her underneath sealed, rusted panels replaced and welded and a complete re-spray in baby blue. The pop-top roof was really tatty so we've had it removed and completely renovated with new canvas and head lining. She's been rewired and had a new split charge system fitted (a system which charges a separate 12v leisure battery in the engine bay and also allows for 240v hook up at camp sites). This powers the new interior LED lights, the sink tap and the radio. The system also powered the fridge but we found it was flattening the leisure battery in about 2 days (unless we used 240v hook up - which we wanted to avoid). We therefore decided to fit a 180w solar panel to the roof and this now charges a separate leisure battery in the van which is enough to power the fridge continually as well as a few 12v USB ports. 

This is the original Devon interior from 1979

We have removed, sanded down and re-stained all of the original wooden furniture and then re-fitted it over a newly tiled floor. All the door cards and interior panels have also been replaced. In fact the only jobs now remaining are to have the seats recovered, fit some new curtains and have the original rusty wheels sand blasted and spruced up. Then she will be ready to take camping next year.

The new floor & renovated interior furniture 

Of course there are always other jobs to do with a van of this age. I also want to fit a gas heater so we can use her in winter and a separate bottle fridge between the 2 front seats, also powered by the solar panel. 

For a more thorough tour, see the video at the start of this post. 

Part 2 of the camper van tour, where we have done some further upgrades including reupholstering her and renovated the wheels can be seen here.

Playing around with Tarps in the Garden .... again !

22nd April 2020

It's been funny year. I had planned to complete the Wainwrights before turning 50 in June. I'd booked off a number of days in March and April, plus a week at Easter and another in late May. That should have been plenty of time to climb the remaining 35, especially as most of them are clumped together in the Northern Fells. That was the idea anyway. Unfortunately though, a particularly stubborn virus with grand ideas of world domination has interfered with my carefully laid plans. And to add insult to injury, the recent weather has been glorious. We are now 4 weeks, or is it 5, into the Covid-19 lockdown. I lose count. Being an NHS key worker has thankfully spared me from the boredom of weekday 9-5 lockdown but there was no escape from my planned Easter week off. So having completed my list of garden chores I thought it would be a good time to update my old tarp pitching video on YouTube from 2015. Since then, nearly all my wild camps have been under a tarp and I've become much more adept at pitching them. I've learnt which shelters work well in the Cumbrian fells, particularly on windy summits where I seem to find myself more often than not. So here is my updated video showing, in my humble opinion, the best 5 tarp configurations using 2 trekking poles and my 9x5 foot silnylon tarp (the solo tarp, £55 from https://www.backpackinglight.co.uk/).






The A-Frame and the Cave are probably the least useful for my needs, the former being only suitable for really calm weather and the latter as a 'hunker down in a storm' shelter. Others may find them helpful though. The A-Frame would be the best option for a sheltered woodland camp and can be pitched between 2 trees instead of trekking poles. The Cave would be much more useful with a bigger tarp, but that's not really my thing. 

The other 3 shelters (the lean-to, the 'closed end' lean-to and the Flying-V) are my favourites and ones I use most. They can all stave off the wind which is usually my primary objective, and they all represent what wild camping with a tarp is all about for me. Wide open vistas, a real feeling of space and an open view of the sky. One of the best things about the tarp and/or bivvy is being able to lie supine in the comfort of a down bag and slowly allow your night vision to soak up the celestial arena. To fall asleep under a pitch black sky studded with countless stars and bisected by a glowing milky way that is hardly ever seen in 'urbandom'. To have wandering satellites, distant galaxies and streaking meteors for company.  You just don't get that experience in a tent. Of course its not always like that and I've had plenty of camps where the weather has unexpectedly turned for the worse. Where wind and rain have rattled the tarp and sleep has been sporadic, but even those experiences are special. Yep … I must admit that I've really fallen for the tarp. 

Wild Camping with a 9 year old - Blencathra

Date: 18th & 19th June 2016
Start/Finish: Scales
Time Taken: 3 hours up, 2 hours down
Distance: 5.5 miles
Height Gained: 2156 feet

Our 'Den' on Blencathra summit

So my 9 year old lad had decided to sleep rough for the night in aid of Den Day, a 'save the children' initiative aimed at raising awareness for children in the world who don't have a safe place to sleep at night. The idea is to sleep in a home-made den in the garden or perhaps on the bedroom floor if the weather is poor. We thought we could do better though. I had planned to take Noah wild camping this year anyway and this seemed like a great opportunity to combine the two ventures. Admittedly, I had imagined a slightly less challenging project for his first wild camp but we decided to be ambitious and aim to build the highest den in the UK for national den day. Blencathra, at 2848 feet, seemed like a good choice as it is a superb mountain with amazing views and importantly, plenty of flat grassy areas on the summit for camping.

Click or zoom on the map below for route details 

 

Thankfully the weather forecast was favourable over the national den day weekend so we left for Blencathra in a buoyant mood. We set off from Scales at 3:30pm along the bracken lined path rising up onto Scales Fell. I had given Noah a trekking pole, a full rucksack and a packet of jelly babies so he looked like a real wild camper.

The path up to Scales Fell

Admiring the view

The first part of the hike is quite steep so we had plenty of short rests. When the path eventually emerges onto the main ridge of Scales Fell it flattens out and the view opens up on all sides.

Views over to Souther Fell ...

... over to Clough Head ...

... and the Keswick-Penrith valley

Blencathra summit comes into view

Looking over to sharp edge

A tiny hiker just visible on the right of sharp edge

Scales Tarn

The final push to the summit was a bit of a struggle for the boy as his rucksack was proving to be uncomfortable. Between us we carried it carrier bag style to the top.

Glimpses of Thirlmere

Looking nervously down the steep gully to Scaley Beck

It's hard work

Blencathra summit - views towards Derwent Water

Summit Selfie

We got to the summit at 6:30pm. Visibility was excellent. It was cold and a bit breezy but we had great views in all directions. 

It was now time to find a place to make camp (or rather, build our den). There is no shortage of flat grassy areas on Blencathra summit and so I let Noah choose a suitable spot. He thought we should make our den right by the little tarn in the middle of the summit plateau. That was fine by me as it was an ideal water source. He set about exploring the tarn while I set the tarp up. He then helped with some final den adjustments, such as the important job of attaching the official den day flag. In next to no time we were unpacked, wrapped up in sleeping bags, had the stove lit and tea on the go.

'Den' made and official flag flying

Having a well earned rest

Perfect summit camp

Home sweet home - Skiddaw in the background

I'd brought a small selection of foods for our evening meal. Noah chose super-noodles from the menu and I had meatballs and pasta. The phone provided our entertainment for the evening. We played pool and hangman and then watched Mrs Doubtfire together. He was asleep before it finished. It was a cold night (6 degrees C) but thankfully the wind died down. We both slept with woolly hats on.

The strangest part of the night was being woken up at around 2am by the sound of voices outside. I poked my head out of the 'door' to see about 20 head torches making their way towards us. A strange conversation then followed - started by "Hey look, a tent! - Is it cosy in there?", to which I replied "Yes thanks, are you fell running?". "Yes" someone answered "We're on the Bob Grahame round". "Ah OK" I replied "Enjoy yourselves!". "You too" they said, and off they went. I had forgotten that this was the closest weekend to the longest day and so was a popular time to tackle this famous 24 hour Lakeland challenge.

A misty morning

 We woke up to a cold and claggy morning. I left Noah watching the end of Mrs Doubtfire in his sleeping bag while I packed everything up. I then got him up and dressed and told him to keep moving around so as to stay warm. I then quickly packed up his mat and bag and then the shelter. A few minutes later the rucksack was packed and we were ready to go. Right, where was Noah? I couldn't see him. Panic set in. Visibility was about 100 feet and I knew that there was a steep drop down to Scales Tarn about 300 feet to the east. "Noah!" I shouted .... No reply. "Noaahhh!" ... still no reply. "NOOAAH!" ..... "What?" says a calm but perplexed 9 year old emerging from the mist. "Are you OK dad?" ..... Bleedin kids!!

After a short lecture on the dangers of wandering out of sight in these conditions, we picked our way carefully down the steep path towards Scales Tarn. It wasn't long before we got below the cloud base.

Scales Tarn through the mist

Wrapped up warm

Scales Tarn - spot the 3 other wild campers

An Emerald looking Scales Tarn

 We soon warmed up once below the cloud. The sun even came out.

Having a face wash in a mountain stream - very refreshing

Views back to sharp edge

Heading down

Made it

The triumphant duo

Overall our little adventure was a roaring success. Noah raised over £500 for save the children and had a great time doing so. It was a tough challenge for him but he really enjoyed the experience and is keen to go wild camping again with his old man. Result!

Upper Eskdale : In the Land of Giants

Date: 30th & 31st July 2015
Start/Finish: Jubilee Bridge, Eskdale
Wainwrights: Scafell Pike, Lingmell, Scafell, Slight Side
Height Gained: 4551 feet 
Distance: 13.8 Miles

 

The Route: anticlockwise form Jubilee Bridge (bottom right)

Wandering around upper Eskdale is a humbling experience. This area, more than any other in the Lake District has a feeling of true wilderness, making you feel small and insignificant amongst the giants of the Cumbrian fells. 

Adding to the sense of isolation is the fact that this is also one of the least visited areas of Lakeland. I only saw one small group of people from a distance in 4 hours of wandering around the Eskdale valley which was in stark contrast to when finally emerging from little narrowcove onto the main ridge to Scafell Pike summit. Talk about one extreme to the other!

The lower Eskdale valley

Bowfell standing guard at the head of the valley

The River Esk

Lingcove Bridge

From here the route crosses the old Lingcove packhorse bridge before climbing up beside the Esk waterfalls and emerging into upper Eskdale and the vast basin of Great Moss.

Nearing the top of the Esk waterfalls and Scafell Pike comes into view for the first time

Scafell Pike and Ill Crag

The upper section of the River Esk guarded by the crags of Scar Lathing

There are paths to the left and right of Scar Lathing into Great Moss but taking the left path brings you up close and personal to the huge crags of Scafell.

The crags of Scafell

Great Moss with Scafell Pike, Ill Crag and Esk Hause at the head of the valley

Great Moss is a hazardous place as your gaze is constantly drawn upwards to the majestic scenery rather than watching where you are treading! A twisted ankle awaits the unwary as the terrain is a large flat peaty area criss-crossed with many little streams. Getting through with dry feet is a challenge in itself.

Cam Spout Gully leading up to Scafell

Dow Crag

Looking back over Great Moss

There are route choices to get up onto Scafell PIke from Great Moss. 1) Camspout gully (but I have done that route before to get to Scafell) 2) Up to Esk Hause and then along the main ridge (done that route too but from Bowfell) or 3) via the steep gully of Little Narrowcove (which I haven't been up before). That settled, I headed up the gully which follows the course of a tumbling gill eventually emerging onto the main ridge leading to Scafell Pike summit. This is where I joined the hoards of other folk all wearily plodding the last few hundred feet up onto England's highest ground.

At the bottom of Little Narrowcove ...

... and the top

Looking back down the Little Narrowcove gully over Pen

First view of Lingmell & Great Gable from the main ridge

Broad Crag and Ill Crag

Scafell Pike summit

 A video of the summit view from Scafell Pike with all the main fells in view labelled
 

Scafell (where I camped later on) from Scafell Pike

Following the path down to Lingmell ...

... and then up to Lingmell

Lingmell summit with the Scafells behind

Broad Crag & Scafell Pike

Looking over Piers Gill towards Great End

Taking the path towards Mickledore

Scafell Pike from near Lords Rake

So what can I say about Lords Rake. It's steep. It's hard work. It's an exhilarating way up onto Scafell as it traverses its most impressive rock scenery. If you have a spare 5 minutes you can watch this abridged video of me struggling up it.

NB. The famous chockstone at the top of the rake finally collapsed on 31st July 2016. May it rest in 'pieces'.

Looking up Lords Rake

Looking back from the top of the 2nd Col on Lords Rake

Scafell summit views North ...

... and west over Wast Water

Looking back to Scafell Pike from Scafell

Tonight's luxurious accommodation

Drying socks out

It was a comfortable camp until the rain came in the early hours (which wasn't forecast!). While the tarp sheltered me from most of the wind driven stuff I had to seek refuge within the bivvy to keep dry. By morning there no sign of it letting up so I begrudgingly packed up in the rain and trudged back up to the summit before heading down the Slight Side ridge and back to Eskdale. It rained for most of the way. The visibility was about 100 yards. My trail shoes made a surprising variety of different squelching sounds to keep me entertained on the long descent.

Slight Side summit in the clag

Getting back below the cloud base

Nearly back to the road

Below is a 10 minute video highlighting the best bits of the walk, and the process of making camp on Scafell summit.







Kit List

Shelter : Backpackinglight solo tarp (278g) & Integral Designs solo ground sheet (140g) 
Mat : Exped SynMat7 UL LW (595g) 
Sleeping Bag : Sleeping quilt actually, the As Tucas custom down quilt (519 grams)
Stove : High Gear Blaze titanium stove (48g)  + Primus 100g Gas Cart   
Pans : Evernew Solo-set (250g)
 
Rucksack : Osprey Talon 44 (1.18kg) 
Fluid : Deuter Streamer 2lt Bladder (185g) and 600ml Sigg bottle (100g empty) + Sawyer Squeeze filter (84g).
Food : Fuizion Beef Stew, Buttered Bread, Supernoodles,various sugary snacks.
Bits & Bobs : headtorch and spare batteries, Iphone + Anker 5800mHh battery,  victorinox knife, map & compass, basic first aid kit and Petzl e-lite, spork, various fold dry bags, flint & steel, plastic trowel.  
Camera : Panasonic DMC-LX7 & lowepro case. Go-Pro Hero 4 Silver and spare batteries.


Clothes : Ron Hill wicking T-Shirt, Rab 100 wt fleece (250g), True Mountain Ultralight windproof jacket (100g), TNF Meridian Cargo Shorts (190g), ME beany, TNF E-Tip gloves, sunglasses, Buff, Innov8 short socks. PHD wafer down jacket (about 200g).
Trail Shoes : Solomon Speedcross (310g)

Total weight excluding water = 8kg