An Eskdale Wander and Wildcamp

Date : 17th & 18th April 2015
Start/Finish : Jubilee Bridge, Brotherikeld, Eskdale.
Wainwrights : Green Crag, Harter Fell, Hard Knott
Distance : 13.3 miles
Height Gained : 3455 feet
Social Hiking Interactive Map : Click Here

The route: Anti-clockwise from the cross-hairs

I knew this was going to be a great little trip. The omens were good as I drove over the Wrynose and Hardknott passes without even seeing another car. One of life's little pleasures. 

So I set off from near Jubilee Bridge heading for Green Crag. Perusing the map, the Birker Force waterfall looked like it might worth a detour and there did seem to be a vague path of sorts which climbed up along it. I soon found the waterfalls and the path which was indeed vague and required the use of hands and feet at some points.

Penny Hill Farm ... complete with spring lamb and mum

Old Lower Birker Farm ... being renovated into a rather nice pad 

Quintessential Lake District -  A moss covered dry stone wall

Views towards Scafell

Birker Force

Views from the top of Birker Force

 From the top of the falls it's an easy ramble along boggy ground towards the crags. There are many crags around this area, with Green Crag being the highest and so I decided to visit a few of them along the way.

Low Birker Tarn

Crook Crags (left) and Green Crag (right)

Views over the Eskdale valley from Crook Crags

Green Crag from Pike Crag

Green Crag summit view back towards Eskdale and Harter Fell

From Green Crag I headed for Harter Fell but took a minor detour over Dow Crag (no not the Coniston one - that would be a detour!). The ground is really wet in places around here. I had, until now, managed to keep my trail shoes dry ... but no longer. I finally succumbed to wet feet.

Next stop ... Harter Fell

The lovely Eskdale valley from Dow Crag

A local on Harter Fell

Harter Fell summit

From Harter Fell I made a bee line for Hard Knott just pausing to collect water from Hardknott Gill along the way. The wind was quite a bit stronger than the insignificant wafts that were forecast so I looked for a sheltered spot and managed to find one with good views of both the sunset and the Scafells. Like I said, the omens were good for this trip :-)

Hard Knott from Harter Fell

Pitched up on Hard Knott with views of the Scafells

The eagle eyed among you will note the deliberate mistake that I have pitched the tarp 'inside out'. This is because I wasn't using the 2 lifter points in the middle of the tarp (I forgot to bring 2 short bamboo canes for this) and so instead used them on the inside to attach my little tent light.  


 
The rudimentary tarp pitching video

A nice view of the sunset

 It was a cold clear night. I spent a long time just watching the night sky which was pitch black and bursting with stars. I watched the space station pass over, saw many satellites and a few shooting stars. It was a mesmerising scene from the comfort of my sleeping bag. This is the great selling point for tarps but of course, being a certified wimp, had there been a hint of rain forecast or indeed any other such inclement weather then I would have brought the tent or the trailstar instead. Tonight though, it was perfect for a 'roofless' night under the stars. I forgot the bivvy bag (schoolboy error!) and so needed to wear my down jacket and insulated trousers to stay warm as the temperature got down to just below zero.

Apart from a bit of wind (the weather that is, not the effects of my delicious Fuzion chicken tikka masala) it was a quiet night. I woke to frosty surroundings and a crispy tarp. I was up and away by 6am and onto Hard Knott summit to watch the sun rising over Cold Pike. All along the ridge towards Lingcove Beck are stunning views of upper Eskdale and the Scafells. It was a joy to watch the sun first touch Scafell summit and then move its way slowly down to illuminate the whole huge massif in an orange glow. My futile efforts with the camera really didn't do justice to this majestic scene.

Sunrise over Cold Pike from Hard Knott summit

Hard Knott summit view back to Harter Fell ...

... and over to the Scafells

Scafell and Scafell Pike

  At the end of the Hard Knott ridge I followed the path down along the gorges and waterfalls of Lingcove Beck. 


 

 It always amazes me how the old Lingcove packhorse bridge stays up. I have no idea when it was built and a quick google search was unrewarding but it looks like it has seen a good few decades and will likely see many more.

Lingcove Bridge

... defying gravity

 From here its a lovely quiet walk following the course of the River Esk back to Jubilee bridge. Only here did I see another person since leaving the car the day before.

Back to the road and the start of the Hardknott Pass

Kit List

Shelter : Backpackinglight solo tarp (278g) & Integral Designs solo ground sheet (140g) 
Mat : Exped SynMat7 UL LW (595g) 
Sleeping Bag : Rab Alpine 400 (970g) and Rab silk liner (132g)    

Stove : High Gear Blaze titanium stove (48g)  + Primus 100g Gas Cart   
Pans : Evernew Solo-set (250g)
 
Rucksack : Osprey Talon 44 (1.18kg) 
Fluid : Deuter Streamer 2lt Bladder (185g) and 600ml Sigg bottle (100g empty) + Sawyer Squeeze filter (84g), 100 mls milk, coffee  
Food : Fuizion Chicken Tikka Masala & Rice, Buttered Bread, Supernoodles,various sugary snacks.
Bits & Bobs : headtorch and spare batteries, Iphone + Anker 5800mHh battery,  victorinox knife, map & compass, basic first aid kit and Petzl e-lite, spork, various fold dry bags, flint & steel, plastic trowel.  
Camera : Panasonic DMC-LX7 & lowepro case.  

Clothes : Ron Hill wicking T-Shirt, Rab 100 wt fleece (250g), Montane lightspeed jacket (160g), TNF Meridian Cargo Shorts (190g), ME beany, Rab phantom grip gloves, sunglasses, Buff, Innov8 short socks. PHD wafer down jacket (about 200g). Montane Prism insulated pants (295g).
Trail Shoes : Merrell Moab Ventilator (680g pair)

Total weight excluding water = 8.5kg

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If you've made it this far then how about some summit panorama video's from Harter Fell and Hard Knott.


 

 

Ok thats it. Shows over. Move on now.

Kentmere Horseshoe

Date : 30th March 2013
Route : Kentmere Horseshoe clockwise
Wainwright's : Yoke, Ill Bell, Froswick, Thornthwaite Crag, Mardale Ill Bell, Harter Fell, Kentmere Pike, Shipman Knotts.
Distance : 20.1 km (12.5 miles)
Height Gained : 1142 m (3748 feet)

The route, clockwise from Kentmere

 Over the previous week there had been more fresh snow over Lakeland. Having glimpsed some of the Kentmere fells from other recent walks and having been advised that the horseshoe is a classic winters walk, I headed off to Kentmere. I arrived at first light, keen to ensure I didn't run out of daylight knowing that progress might be slow depending on snow conditions. The horseshoe route is a classic, taking in 8 Wainwright fells. Clockwise seemed best to me as I knew the terrain on the west of Harter Fell was quite steep and would rather climb up rather than down if conditions were icy. Having parked in a farmers field with an honesty box by Low Bridge in Kentmere, I headed off towards the Garburn Pass.

The lower Kentmere valley from the Garburn Pass near Kentmere

A friendly face

 At Garburn Nook I left the Pass and headed north towards Yoke, the first objective for today. Despite Yoke's impressive profile the path upwards is a fairly gradual ascent with great views east over the Kentmere valley and west over the Troutbeck valley.

The path northwards to Yoke

Looking east over deep drifts (that's a 4 foot wall) towards Kentmere Pike

 Yoke summit is fairly flat with a pile of rocks to denote the top. Views are good all round but the eyes are drawn northwards to the impressive looking Ill Bell.

Yoke summit looking north towards Ill Bell

  

Yoke summit panorama west

Yoke summit panorama east

 Other than a biting wind the weather was perfect and the route onwards to Ill Bell was clear and inviting.

The Langdale Valley area from the path to Ill Bell

The Coniston range from the path to Ill Bell

First glimpse of Kentmere Reservoir

Looking onwards to Ill Bell

 The summit of Ill Bell is an expansive rocky plateau adorned with 3 large summit cairns. Why three? I have no idea but the views from each are excellent. This summit is well worth exploring.

The 3 summit cairns of Ill Bell

Ill Bell summit panorama west

Ill Bell summit panorama east

 The next fell is Froswick which requires a short and steepish descent and then a gradual climb to its summit. Despite its lesser height, the views from Froswick seem superior to Ill Bell, mainly because its small summit does not impede the sight-lines in any direction.

The path to Froswick

Looking back to Ill Bell

Froswick summit panorama west

Froswick summit panorama east

A short video from Froswick summit.

 The snow deepened on the path to Thornthwaite crag making progress rather slow. I quickly learned that the best way of walking on this snow was to either high step in other peoples footprints or better still to go off to the side and walk on untouched snow which had a crust just firm enough to support my weight. Snow near rocks, grassy tussocks or drifts would collapse under foot and I would soon be labouring up to my shins.  

The snow deepens towards Thornthwaite Crag

Looking back to Froswick and Ill Bell

 Anyone who has not visited Thornthwaite Crag before will no doubt be surprised and impressed by the huge summit beacon which must stand about 15 foot tall.

The Thornthwaite Beacon on the summit

Thornthwaite Crag summit panorama west

Thornthwaite Crag summit panorama east

Troutbeck valley from Thornthwaite Crag

 After a short coffee break I followed the path, or rather a line of footprints, northeast towards High Street but having climbed it before, and discovering it is not a particularly good vantage point, I veered off eastwards towards the next objective, Mardale Ill Bell. I was now at the apex of the horseshoe and the views north over Hayeswater and south back down the Kentmere valley were stunning.

Hayeswater and Place Fell beyond.

Onwards to Mardale Ill Bell

Looking back over to Yoke, Ill Bell & Froswick.

 Mardale Ill Bell summit is a rocky area with great views to the north over Haweswater. The views south are somewhat impeded by high ground. The route onwards to Harter Fell is steep in places descending to the col and very steep in places on the ascent to Harter fell. It was at this point when I put the crampons on and donned the ice axe.

Mardale Ill Bell summit panorama west

Mardale Ill Bell summit panorama east over Haweswater and Harter Fell

Kentmere Reservoir from the Col between Mardale Ill Bell and Harter Fell

The steep route up to Harter Fell

Views looking over a frozen Small Water towards Haweswater

Yoke and Ill Bell over Kentmere Reservoir

Getting steep on Harter Fell. Axe and spikes required

Harter Fell summit panorama west

Harter Fell Summit panorama east

 Although the way south towards Kentmere Pike looked easy enough and crampons were no longer required, the snow was shin deep and with a thin crust which sometimes would take my weight and other times not. This section proved to be the most awkward part of the walk.

Harter Fell view south towards Kentmere Pike

Wrapped up warm

Panorama west from near Kentmere Pike

Sistrugi on Kentmere Pike flanks

Kentmere Pike summit panorama west

Kentmere Pike summit panorama east

Windermere from Kentmere Pike summit

 South of Kentmere Pike the snow began to thin out and the going was easier. One more fell to go, Shipman Knotts. 

The path down to Shipman Knotts

Shipman Knotts summit panorama west

Shipman Knotts summit panorama east

Looking back up the Kentmere valley and the days walking route

Panorama of the Kentmere Horseshoe

 This was a great winters walk but it took me nearly 9 hours to get round, mainly due to the snow conditions. I will have to do the route again in summer to get a different perspective of this great horseshoe walk.