Taking the Boy up Bowfell (AKA the Eiger) via climbers traverse in winter

Video of the walk

Date: 3rd December 2016
Start/Finish: Old Dungeon Ghyll
Summits: Bowfell (2959 feet), Rossett Pike (2136 feet) [and the Eiger! 13,020 feet]
Distance: 9 miles
Elevation: 4076 feet
Time Taken: 6 hours

The Route : Clockwise from Old Dungeon Ghyll (far right)

It had been ages since I was last in the fells. Five months in fact. The main reasons were 1) getting a new job 2) having a child who needs driving to football-lots 3) bad weather whenever I planned a trip. Anyway, it was time make amends. My 9 year old was keen to get out for a hiking adventure and I had promised to take him up Bowfell. Stories of steep crags, exposed routes and stunning views had whetted his appetite and there was also the chance of some snow high up which added to the excitement. 

We parked up near the Old Dungeon Ghyll and headed off through Stool End Farm and up the Band. Patches of snow were visible higher up but the summit of Bowfell remained elusively under cloud. As he had managed Blencathra with ease in the summer I thought that the climbers traverse / great slab route would be good challenge for him, especially if there was a bit of snow around. However, as we didn't have axe's & spikes I was prepared to turn back or change routes if needed (I had checked the various web cams, weather forecasts and blogs and was satisfied that any snow/ice would be patchy and avoidable).

Stool End Farm

Oxendale Beck 

A friendly local

Pike O'Stickle

Looking back along the Great Langdale Valley

First patch of snow high up on the Band

We headed up the Band until leaving the main path to access climbers traverse (a detailed description of how to find the route is described here). At this point we encountered the first few patches of snow which the boy promptly jumped in, got his gloves soaking wet and his hands cold. No problem though. I has prepared for such eventualities and had a rucksack full of spare warm stuff. So on went the waterproof mitts and the conversation turned to famous mountaineers and epic alpine adventures. Before long his imagination was fired and we were embarking on the first ascent of the Eiger. He had great fun climbing up a steepish patch of snow using 2 poles and plenty of grit and determination. He felt like a real mountaineer and I was happy that the slope gradually levelled out at the bottom where there were no rocks to slide into if he slipped.  

Struggling up the the Eigers fiercesome north face !  

Up to his thighs on the 'Rote Fluh'

Kicking steps on the 'White Spider'

Having successfully conquered the Eiger we returned to Bowfell and made our way towards the climbers traverse. It was great to take my son along this narrow route which winds its way amongst some of Lakelands most spectacular rock scenery. The presence of a few snow patches added to the adventure. 

Climbers Traverse .....

..... or rather the Hinterstoisser Traverse!

Looking towards Bowfell Buttress

The water spout under Cambridge Crag

A hyperlapse video of climbers traverse


We stopped for a well earned rest and a bite to eat by the water spout at the bottom of Cambridge Crag before heading off for the final push up the steep boulder field by the famous Great Slab.

Views over Great Slab towards the Langdale Pikes

Scrambling up the boulder field

A misty Great Slab

From the top of Great Slab its just a short amble to the shattered summit of Bowfell. Unfortunately there were no views today so we didn't linger. Instead we headed quickly off towards Esk Pike but then got distracted by more large snow fields which just had to be walked over, slid down and jumped in.

Getting back below the cloud and about to 'bum slide' down this inviting slope

Views over to Esk Pike

How Exciting!?

By the time we had finished playing around it was clear that we wouldn't have enough daylight left to climb over Esk Pike and come back via Esk Hause as originally planned. Instead we took a short cut down to Angle Tarn at Ore Gap where even more large snow fields distracted us into further fun and frolics. By the time we bagged Rossett Pike and got down the Rossett Gill path it was going dark. Head torches were deployed for that last mile along the Cumbria Way back to the car. This made for a last bit of excitement before the end of a perfect lad & dad adventure.

Snowball action shot

The arty black and white shot of Angle Tarn

Bowfell summit now out of cloud ..... typical!

Trying to make a snow angel

Icing a limb threatening wound on Rossett Pike summit

Looking down Rossett Gill and back along the Great Langdale Valley

Next on the adventure radar .... The Matterhorn!

Langdale to Scafell Pike: A day hike

Date: 19th October 2010

Route: From Old Dungeon Ghyll to Bowfell via climbers traverse, then Esk Pike, Scafell Pike and back via Great End and Rossett Pike.

Wainwrights: Bowfell, Esk Pike, Scafell Pike, Great End, Rossett Pike

Distance: 20.8km (13 miles)

Height Gained: 1622 meters (5323 feet)

Time Taken: 8 hours

 _____________________________________________________________________

The route, clockwise from Old Dungeon Ghyll (far right)

 This was one of those walks where you set off with a fair idea of your route but then one thing leads to another and you end up wandering much further than planned. My intended summit today was Bowfell from old Dungeon Ghyll at the head of the Great Langdale valley. I wanted to climb it via the 'climbers traverse' route, which can be difficult to find, as I had discovered the previous year. That time I had stumbled across it, more by luck than judgement, while heading up Bowfell from Crinkle Crags. On that day the weather was poor, with rain and hill fog obscuring views. Having now researched the route more thoroughly, and with a clear forecast, I set off at 7:30am heading for 'The Band' and keeping an eye out for the point where a path veers off on the right for the climbers traverse and the extensive rocky crags of the east face of Bowfell.

The view along Mickleden from the path to Stool End farm at 7:00 am

The path to Stool End farm and beyond to Crinkle Crags

Crinkle Crags bathed in early morning sunlight

Pike of Stickle and a local

Views towards the Langdale Pikes from high up on The Band

From The Band: Red tarn just visible between Pike O'Blisco and Cold Pike with Wetherlam beyond

Attention! - this is the point where the indistinct path to climbers traverse veers off, snaking over high ground on right

The view back down the Great Langdale Valley

 Climbers traverse is a fairly well trodden path which winds it way underneath Bowfells impressive rocky scenery. It is so named as it was used by rock climbers to access Bowfell Buttress and Cambridge Crags. It is not shown on the OS map but is well described in Wainwright's Pictorial Guide: Book 4. 

Climbers traverse meandering under Bowfells crags

The view over Rossett Pike to Glaramara - from climbers traverse

 At the point where a spring emerges from moss covered rock on the left a subtle path can be seen cutting steeply backwards as it skirts Cambridge Crag. This is easily missed so if you find yourself passing beyond the rocky bulk of Cambridge Crag (see pictures) then you have gone too far. 

Cambridge Crag (left) and Bowfell Buttress (right). The path up follows the diagonal contour seen climbing steeply leftwards under Cambridge Crag

The spring where Wainwright recommends filling ones water bottle

At the spring, a rocky path climbs up along Cambridge Crag

 The steep 'path' soon disintegrates into a boulder field but the lie of the land is easy to follow as you skirt Cambridge Crag on the right, eventually emerging onto the iconic and aptly named 'Great Slab'. This impressive rocky feature is very obvious when seen but it is probably best to stay close to the boulders on the right which is the less exposed route. 

The bottom of Great Slab

A classic Lakeland view: the top of Great Slab on Bowfell

 Once at the top of 'Great Slab' take a moment to ponder the magnificent view towards the Langdale Pikes and the Great Langdale Valley. This is truly one of the finest Lakeland aspects. It's then a simple case of following the rock-scape upwards until you emerge on the summit of Bowfell and are rewarded by breathtaking views of the Scafells over the Eskdale valley.

 Anyone familiar with Bowfell will be aware of its local microclimate. If there is a cloud to be seen, it will usually make a beeline for the summit while often leaving other nearby peaks untouched. This typically changeable weather was no different today. In the 20 minutes I sat there enjoying coffee & flapjack the clouds descended obscuring all views, it then snowed briefly before the cloud lifted and the sun came out.

Looking over Crinkle Crags from Bowfell summit

Bowfell summit panorama west towards the Scafell range

Bowfell summit panorama east back to the Great Langdale valley

 From this point I had intended to either tackle the Crinkles, or go the other way to Esk Pike and back via Rossett Pike. However, as I gazed across to Scafell Pike and eyeballed the route back along the ridge to Great End, Esk Hause, Esk Pike and back to where I was now stood, this seemed like such an inviting objective. A quick look at the map confirmed good paths all the way and it didn't seem 'too' far. Decision made, I set off at a quick pace, mindful of the distance and rocky terrain despite the illusion of an easy jaunt. It is a straight forward path along the broad ridge to Esk Pike with great views in all directions but particularly forwards to Great Gable and left to the Scafell range.

Esk Pike summit panorama west - Bowfell far left, Scafell's mid-right

The Esk valley from Esk Pike

Great End and Great Gable from Esk Hause

 By the time I reached Esk Hause the weather had continued to improve and I was making good time. I followed the path upwards to gain the Scafell ridge and then continued on to Ill Crag.

Great Gable and Kirk Fell from near Ill Crag

Ill Crag summit panorama over Eskdale

Ill Crag summit panorama west

Scafell Pike from Ill Crag

 Scafell Pike didn't seem to be getting any closer but I continued on along increasingly rocky terrain until the final steep ascent emerged onto the summit plateau. There was one other hiker at the top but he headed off as I arrived and I had the summit of England's highest all to myself for a precious 10 minutes before others emerged from the Wasdale side.

Scafell Pike summit panorama west

Scafell Pike summit panorama north-east

Scafell Pike summit view east towards Bow Fell & Crinkle Crags

Scafell Pike summit view towards Scafell and Wast Water

 I headed back along my tracks making a short diversion to Broad Crag before retreading my steps back along the ridge towards Great End. When I reached the point labelled 'Bield' on the map where the main path descends back to Esk Hause, I decided it would be foolish to walk past Great End and so headed up along an easy path to its summit. It was a worthwhile detour as the views in all directions were stunning.

Great Gable and Styhead tarn from Broad Crag

Lingmell and Great Gable from near Great End

Great End summit panorama west

The view over Rossett Pike towards Great Langdale - from Great End summit

Esk Pike and Bowfell from the descent to Esk Hause

 I then walked back down to 'Bield' to rejoin the path to Esk Hause before bearing eastwards towards Angle Tarn. From this area there are stunning views over to the Langdale Pikes. There is something special about looking down onto these iconic fells from higher ground and I think this vantage point showcases the 'Pikes' from their very best aspect.

Looking down on the Langdale Pikes from near Angle Tarn

Angle Tarn

 The last fell of the day is Rossett Pike, which although the least in altitude, commands a superb vantage point at the head of the Great Langdale valley.

Rossett Pike summit view down the Great Langdale valley

Rossett Pike view over the High Raise massif and the Langdale Pikes

 On the descent from Rossett Pike the impressive rock scenery of Bowfells eastern face demands increasing attention. My earlier ascent path along climbers traverse and up to Great Slab becomes clearly visible.

Great Slab and the ascent path along the boulder field

Great Slab and Cambridge Crag: 2 climbers can just be seen emerging from the top of the boulder field

 From here the path descends steeply down Rossett Gill to eventually emerge at Mickleden under the dominating bulk of Pike of Stickle which by now was bathed in late afternoon sunlight.

Mickledon & the Great Langdale valley from Rossett Gill

Pike of Stickle from Mickledon

A last glimpse back along Mickledon towards Rossett Pike

 The legs were feeling tired now and it was a weary but thoroughly satisfied plod back along the Cumbria way to the car parked by Old Dungeon Ghyll. This was about as far (and high) as I would want to walk in a day but it was a route which had everything that I love about day hiking in the Lake District; impressive rock & crag scenery, a bit of scrambling, majestic peaks, quiet tarns and stunning views. What's not to like ?