A Grasmoor round & wild camp : From Crummock Water

Date : 2nd & 3rd May 2014
Route: From Rannerdale to Grasmoor in an anticlockwise loop over Wandope & back over Whiteside
Wainwrights : Rannerdale Knotts, Whiteless Pike, Wandope, Crag Hill (Eel Crag), Grasmoor, Hopegill Head, Whiteside.
Distance : 11.2 miles (18km)
Height gained : 4586 feet (1398 meters)
Time taken : Day 1 = 5 1/2 hours : Day 2 = 4 hours. 

Social Hiking Link : click here

The route - anticlockwise from Rannerdale

 The weather forecast was about as good as it gets in the Lake District; cold but clear skies, patchy high cloud, no wind and excellent visibility. I therefore decided to head high. Last years Coledale Horseshoe route onto Grasmoor summit had provided some of the best mountian views I have ever been fortunate enough to witness & since then I had intended a wild camp up there. There were a few fells on my 'to do' list on the western side of Grasmoor so a route was devised to link them all up and off I went.

Rannerdale & Rannerdale Knotts

 The first objective was Rannerdale Knotts. A path leads straight up from Crummock water but hold on .... it was a spring day .... in Rannerdale .... that rings a bell. Bluebells in fact, the famous Rannerdale bluebells would be out! I thought there were more cars parked on the road than expected. A minor diversion was therefore in order to have a look see. It was a worthwhile detour.

Mellbreak

Grasmoor

Whiteless Pike

The High Rannerdale Valley

Rannerdale Knotts

 Back on track I headed up the steep path to Rannerdale Knotts. Thankfully there were lots of photo opportunities along the way to masquerade as rest stops.

Grasmoor

Fleetwith Pike & Haystacks over Buttermere

The Red Pike / High Stile ridge

Mellbreak over Crummock Water

Looking down Crummock Water towards Low Fell

 Now I'm not usually a grumpy fella. I don't really like conflict and tend to let most things slip by without a word but this time I broke from my typical placid demeanor. From about 300 yards away I could hear them well before I saw them. A couple, middle aged and with accents south of the Watford Gap were sat by the summit cairn. She was 'shouting' into her phone while he was eating his lunch and loudly chirping into the conversation at frequent intervals. The cacophony was a sharp contrast to the otherwise peaceful surroundings. It was like something from a Dom Joly sketch. As I very slowly meandered towards the summit it was clear that they had no intention of moving on. I therefore wandered over and stood on the summit cairn taking my photos while receiving annoyed looks as I trod carefully around their sandwiches. As I moved off I asked him if he had ever heard of a 'summit hog'. After repeating myself in order to be heard above his wife, he said "Na Mate, a Sammit Hawg?" "Yes I said, look it up when you get home", and with that, I set off on my way. I hope he did look it up. He would have found something like this which I think sums it up well - Summit Hog. It's common courtesy to move off the summit if someone else arrives. After all, everyone wants to to get the highest point & take their photos without others being in them. Sitting on the top while having lunch and shouting is just rubbing salt in the wounds in my book. Anyway, rant over. If you want to read more of me moaning about this then I have vented my spleen here.

Summit Hogs on Rannerdale Knotts

The superb panorama from Rannerdale Knotts

I was virtually stood on his lunch to get this picture towards Buttermere

  My mood quickly improved a further 300 yards on as I finally moved out of Mrs Summit Hog's earshot who was still barking into her phone. The ridge continued on towards the head of the Higher Rannerdale valley before climbing back up the other side towards Whiteless Pike.

Whiteless Pike

Robinson

The Sale Beck valley - Causey Pike in the sunshine

 At this point the numerous other walkers around Rannerdale fizzled away and the fells became quiet and secluded. By the time I reached Crag Hill it was 5pm and the few other walkers I had seen were now heading down. I had taken a leisurely 4 hours to get here and I now just had a simple stroll over to the Grasmoor summit plateau to find a suitable place to make camp. 

Looking back over Rannerdale Knotts from Whiteless Pike

Grasmoor from Whiteless Pike

Crag Hill & Sail from near Wandope

Grasmoor from Wandope

Crag Hill summit view towards Skiddaw & Blencathra

 So far it has been exceptionally dry under foot and since leaving Crummock Water I hadn't had any sight or sound of water. I was beginning worry a little as I didn't really have enough to get me through the night, at least not if I wanted a hot meal, coffee and then noodles for breakfast. Luckily I came across some standing water in a few peat hags at the shallow col between Crag Hill and Grasmoor. I filtered 2 litres with the trusty sawyer squeeze filter and made my way up onto the expanse of the Grasmoor summit plateau.  

 Just past the summit shelter the land dropped down to a little grassy area which was sheltered from any easterly or westerly winds whilst having great views down to Crummock Water. A perfect spot. And so at 6pm and with no other hikers in sight I made camp and settled down to watch the sunset over the Irish Sea.

A room with a View

Camp - just below Grasmoor summit

Enjoying the sunset

Loweswater glowing in the evening light

 The last time I was on Grasmoor it was first light on a February morning after a camp on Sail summit. The scene as the morning sun lit the Buttermere Fells & beyond was stunning and so I was hoping for more of the same. Unfortunately it wasn't to be. I woke to a somewhat hazy & overcast scene with no chance of seeing a sunrise. Ahh well, you can't have it all. I'd been very lucky so far. Despite the disappointingly 'washed out' light, all the high fells were still in view and I headed off towards Coledale Hause well rested and with a spring in the step.

Whiteside from Grasmoor

Coledale Hause : Hopegill Head (left) & Grisedale Pike (right)

The Coledale valley

 From Coledale Hause its a steady trudge up to Sand Hill and then Hopegill Head which has the lofty position of occupying the head of 4 converging ridges. It's a great vantage point.

Looking back to Crag Hill from Sand Hill

Grisedale Pike from Hopegill Head

The path to Whiteside from Hopegill Head

The Gasgale valley from Hopegill Head

  

 From Hopegill Head an exhilarating ridge is followed towards Whiteside. A steep drop falls way abruptly on the left down to Gasgale Beck, over which the huge bulk of Grasmoor dominates the valley on the other side. To the right (west) are uninterrupted views to the coast and over the Solway Firth to Scotland. 

Looking back along the ridge to Hopegill Head

Grasmoor

Grasmoor from Whiteside panorama

 From Whiteside summit onwards the terrain becomes decidedly steeper. Crummock Water looks spectacular far below & entices the eyes away from feet which is most unwise on this section. A few stumbles later I learned to pause when gazing down to the waterside 2300 feet below. 

The steep descent from Whiteside

 At this point I met the first of a string of hikers making the upwards journey. Most were curious as to why I was coming down (it was still only 9am) but a few spied the large pack and enquired as to where I'd camped. 

Looking over Whin Benn to Crummock Water

Mellbreak

 Eventually the road is reached and I enjoyed a nice stroll along Crummock Water for the last mile to the car back at Rannerdale. Overall this was a great route which would also be achievable in a day and I can highly recommend it. The benign weather and the views from from Grasmoor made for the best wild camp I've had yet. So thats 4 new Wainwrights and 3 old favourites which brings the count up to 132. I'm in no hurry to complete them though. This is something to be savoured, not rushed.

 I also did a video of the hike which somehow managed to end up 25 mins long. I have posted it here in case anyone wants a look but please make sure you are sat comfortably and with a strong coffee to keep you awake.

Kit List  
 
Tent : Tarptent Scarp 1 (1.36kg)  
Pegs : 6 x 6 inch Easton, 4 x 6 inch titanium V pegs, 2 x aluminium scewers, 1 x MSR blizzard stake (doubles as a trowel) 
Mat : Exped Synmat UL 7LW (595g)   
Sleeping Bag : Rab Alpine 400 (970g)  
Pillow : Backpackinglight - Backpacking Pillow (62g) stuffed with Montane Prism 2 jacket.  
Stove : High Gear Blaze titanium stove (48g)  + Primus 100g Gas Cart 
Pans : Evernew Solo-set (pot & mug 250g)  

Rucksack : Osprey Talon 44 (1.09kg) 

Fluid : 1 litre Sigg Bottles (147g empty), OMM Garny pouch & Ultra bottle + an Aquatina collapsible bottle + Sawyer Squeeze filter (84g)  

Food : Fuizion Tai Green Chicken Curry, Buttered Bread, Supernoodles,various sugary snacks, coffee, cup-a-soup.  

Bits & Bobs : headtorch and spare batteries, Iphone + Anker 5800mHh battery, tent light,  victorinox knife, map & compass, basic first aid kit and Petzl e-lite, long handles titanium spoon, various fold dry bags, flint & steel.  

Camera : Panasonic LX7 & lowepro case. 

Clothes : Base layer = Rohan Ultra Silver long sleeve T (95g) & leggings (80g) (used in sleeping bag instead of a liner), Ron Hill wicking T-Shirt, ME Astron Hooded jacket (400g), The North Face Meridian Shorts, Montane aero cap, ME beany, TNF 'E Tip' gloves, sunglasses, Buff, Bridgedale socks.  Thermal = Montane prism 2 jacket (423g) - doubles as a pillow when packed into its own pocket. Shell = ME Firefox jacket (320g) & trousers (295g). Spare gloves (Buffalo Mitts & Extremities tuff bags) & socks (sealskinz) 

Trail Shoes : Meindl Respond GTX (820g pair)
Poles : Black Diamond Trail Compact (488g pair)  

Loaded rucksack weight = approx 11kgs (excluding water)

An Ennerdale Hike & Wild Camp

Date : 14th & 15th April 2014
Wainwrights : Grike, Crag Fell, Lank Rigg, Caw Fell, Haycock
Wild Camp : Caw Fell
Distance : 17.1 miles (27.5km)
Height gained : 4494 feet (1370 meters)

Social Hiking map & media : click here

The Route : Anticlockwise from the car park top left

 This was an unplanned walk. By some divine favourable alignment of the planets (or just plain good luck), I had 2 days to myself at short notice and a cracking weather forecast. A quick perusal of my Wainwright count highlighted 5 fells in the far western region which needed my attention. Further scrutiny of the area on my beloved lake district raised relief map suggested a possible route to link them all together and a final examination on the OS map sealed the deal. And so early on Monday morning I headed off to the Ennerdale valley, parked near Crag Farm House and set off along the most direct route to Grike up the steep Ben Gill path.

Ben Gill : the path ascends between the trees before zig-zagging right, then back left

Views to Ennerdale Water

Looking back to the car

 This is also the path up to Crag Fell but about 2/3 along the way a stile in the fence gives access to the grassy slopes of Grike. There is no obvious path and so it is simply a case of wandering steadily upwards over a featureless terrain of tussocks until finally emerging onto the broad summit plateau where a large pile of stones and a wind shelter indicate the highest point. Being the most westerly of the Wainwrights,  Grike benefits from largely uninterrupted views out to the Irish Sea whilst also offering tempting views of the larger fells further inland.

Grike summit views to the coast

Crag Hill from Grike

Grike summit panorama East

Grike summit panorama West

 A direct path then links Grike to Crag Fell, which from this side appears to be another featureless grassy mound but when viewed from Ennerdale Water, is an impressively steep rocky bulk dominating the southern shore of the Lake. Once on the summit, the 'craggy' part of Crag Fell becomes more apparent and then a stunning view opens up revealing the full length of Ennerdale Water with Great Borne and the High Stile ridge as the backdrop. A real jaw dropping panorama worthy of rucksack removal, a seated position and 20 minutes of quiet reflection. 

 

Ennerdale Water from Crag Fell

Great Borne

 Having quietly reflected, I reluctantly left Crag Fell with a mental note to wild camp there sometime. The next fell on the radar was Lank Rigg. From here, it seemed a long way off, and its shallow grassy mound of a profile without a rock in sight wasn't terribly inspiring.

Crag Fell summit panorama North - Lank Rigg highest fell centre

 It was indeed a long slog from Crag Fell over Whoap to Lank Rigg although the otherwise dreary walk was made considerably more interesting by the activity of the Forestry Commission. Clearly there had been a large expanse of trees (probably non-native pine) between Crag Fell and Whoap which had recently been felled, creating a scene of strange desolation. I would imagine this is part of the project to re-wild some areas of Ennerdale which is something I strongly approve of. It must have been a strange & unnatural sight to see a huge glade of mature trees in this area and although I obviously stumbled across this region in a state of transition I would hope that the area will look fully naturalised again in a few years.

 

Felling on the flanks of Whoap

Grike (left) & Crag Fell (right) showing the extent of felling across both hills

 Lank Rigg summit is apparently a place of buried treasure, there being a tradition of leaving coins under one of the cairn stones near the trig point. A quick inspection of the most appealing candidates was unrewarding so I wandered over to the 'other summit' further west and found a nice spot sheltered from the cold easterly to have lunch. I hadn't seen another person since leaving the car and had just skylarks and the occasional sheep for company.

Lank Rigg summit : Iron Crags & Caw Fell in foreground, Pillar to Haycock ridge in background

A flying saucer hovers over the Irish Sea

 My next destination was Caw Fell. The direct route was tempting but would involve traversing an unseen valley/stream on a pathless route over likely marshy ground and losing considerable height in the process. The alternative was to retread my tracks back to Whoap and then join the slowly rising ridge up to Iron Crags and then Caw Fell, which was longer but on a good path and without significant height loss. I opted for the latter.

 It was certainly a long walk but once on Iron Crags the views open up over the whole ridge from Caw Fell to Pillar. Stunning scenery, and really quite amazing that despite the popularity of fell walking in the lakes, I seemingly had this whole area to myself. 

The Pillar to Haycock ridge from Iron Crags

Pillar & Steeple in dappled sunlight

Caw Fell from Iron Crags

 From Iron Crags, it is a steady uphill stroll onto the long summit plateau of Caw Fell. At first it is not obvious where the highest point is but a few cairns and a wind shelter soon come into view westwards and so over I wandered, and then further on to another large cairn complete with antenna like ironmongery which seemed like it might be higher. This was the best spot for coastal views but looking back, the other cairn was obviously higher. I presume cairn hopping is also a familiar past-time for fellow peek baggers keen to stand aloft the true summit of any fell.  

 

The coastal view from Caw Fell

Lank Rigg from Caw Fell - and wondering whether I should have taken the direct route?

The view East from Caw Fell : Haycock centre right / Seatallan far right

 I had originally planned to camp on Haycock summit but a glance along the ridge to its seemingly rocky bulk, a downwards glance at the soft grass of Caw Fell, followed by a 'self diagnostic' of stamina and a time check computed that I should start looking for a camp spot. This decision was further reinforced by the inviting dry stone wall running along Caw Fell which would provide adequate shelter from the biting easterly wind. A wander along the wall in the direction of Haycock soon revealed a nice flat stone-free spot with views of the Scafell's. Perfect !

The tent door view of the Scafell's

 Tent pitched, tea (or 'dinner' if one is of a certain upbringing) on the boil and I settled down to watch the lengthening shadows creep up the Scafell's followed by a glorious sunset over the Irish Sea and then a full moon emerged over Scafell Pike. This is really what wild camping is all about. It's difficult to put into words but arranging the following adjectives into a meaningful sentence gives some idea, at least for me; inspiring, majestic, isolated, exposed, privileged. And then depending on the weather; tranquil, reflective, anxious, intimidating, frightening but always (for any American readers) Awesome!

A time lapse video of the moon rising / sunset can be seen here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7nrsUaDWcM

Moon rise over Scafell Pike

 I slept well after watching 'Crash' on the phone followed by a therapeutic amount of single malt whiskey. It never became fully dark due to the full moon but increasing light levels in the early morning indicated it was time to get up and get some breakfast on. It was a bitterly cold morning with frost on the tent so I wasted no time in packing up and getting moving so as to warm up. I had been walking for just 10 minutes when the sun rose over Scoat Fell, painting the landscape in that familiar orange glow.

Sunrise over Scoat Fell - Haycock on the right

 The walk towards Haycock is a gradual transition onto more rocky terrain. A slight diversion off the main path up onto Little Gowder Crag is well worth the effort for the views down to Ennerdale Water.    

Ennerdale Water from Little Gowder Crag

Little Gowder Crag

Scoat Fell & Steeple from Haycock

Haycock summit

 After bagging Haycock, the highest Wainwright of my planned route, it was time to head back. I had momentarily considered going on a little further to Scoat Fell & Steeple but being a little pressed for time, and having previously climbed them, I took the main path down over Tewitt Howe to the Ennerdale valley before walking the length of Ennerdale Water back to the car.

Ennerdale Water from Tewitt How

The High Stile ridge from Tewitt How

Ennerdale Water from the Lingmell plantation

Crossing the River Liza at the head of Ennerdale Water

Crag Fell

Looking back towards Pillar

The little path along the south shore

The view from the weir at the far west of Ennerdale Water

 Perhaps it was the unexpected and hastily arranged nature of this walk which made it so enjoyable but the perfect weather was also a considerable bonus. And so the Wainwright count now stands at 128 and the next planned venture back to Lakes is early May. Here's hoping my luck with the weather holds.

Kit List  

Tent : Tarptent Scarp 1 (1.36kg)  
Pegs : 6 x 6 inch Easton, 4 x 6 inch titanium V pegs, 2 x aluminium scewers, 1 x MSR blizzard stake (doubles as a trowel)
Mat : Exped Synmat UL 7LW (595g) 
Sleeping Bag : Rab Alpine 400 (970g)
Pillow : Backpackinglight - Backpacking Pillow (62g) stuffed with Montane Prism 2 jacket.  
Stove : High Gear Blaze titanium stove (48g)  + Primus 100g Gas Cart 
Pans : Evernew Solo-set (pot & mug 250g)  

Rucksack : Osprey Talon 44 (1.09kg) 

Fluid : 1 litre Sigg Bottles (147g empty) + Deuter Streamer 2lt Bladder (185g) + Sawyer Squeeze filter (84g)  

Food : Fuizion Chicken Tikka Masala, Buttered Bread, Supernoodles,various sugary snacks, coffee, cup-a-soup.

Bits & Bobs : headtorch and spare batteries, Iphone + Anker 5800mHh battery, tent light,  victorinox knife, map & compass, basic first aid kit and Petzl e-lite, long handles titanium spoon, various fold dry bags, flint & steel.
 
Camera : Panasonic LX7 & lowepro case.
 
Clothes : Base layer = Rohan Ultra Silver long sleeve T (95g) & leggings (80g) (used in sleeping bag instead of a liner), Ron Hill wicking T-Shirt, ME Astron Hooded jacket (400g), Sprayway Challenger softshell trousers, Montane aero cap, ME beany, TNF 'E Tip' gloves, sunglasses, Buff, Bridgedale socks. 
Thermal = Montane prism 2 jacket (423g) - doubles as a pillow when packed into its own pocket.
Shell = ME Firefox jacket (320g) & trousers (295g).
Spare gloves (Buffalo Mitts & Extremities tuff bags) & socks (sealskinz)
 
Boots : Solomon Quest 4D  
Poles : Black Diamond Trail Compact (488g pair)  

Loaded rucksack weight = aprox 11kgs (excluding water)
 

Kit of the Day

I don't really do reviews but I will highlight the Montane Prism 2 as a great thermal jacket. I didn't need to use it at all for day 1 but it was used extensively in the cold morning on day 2. The instant it go's on I feel warmer and more secure. It is sized to fit over a fleece or soft shell, is fully wind proof and has a great hood. Also it packs into its own pocket and forms a perfect pillow which I use at night stuffed into the 62g backpacking pillow case from backpackinglight.co.uk